Thursday, February 22, 2024
HomeAlcoholEvaluation: Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami

Evaluation: Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami

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Johnnie Walker continues to crank out particular editions of its Blue Label bottlings, and this newest is its most enigmatic. Elusive Umami is a collaboration between Johnnie Walker grasp blender Emma Walker and Japanese chef Kei Kobayashi, a whisky designed to discover the enigma of “umami,” the long-heralded “fifth style.”

It isn’t made by dumping soy sauce into the barrel or ending in mizunara — nothing like that. Frankly, it’s only a barrel decide: Walker says that “only one in 25,000 casks made the minimize within the seek for the elusive taste profile” they have been going for right here. I’m undecided that hundred of hundreds of casks have been sampled to create Elusive Umami, however what the hell do I learn about it? I’m right here to style the whisky and inform you whether or not it matches the invoice or not. So let’s get going.

The evocation of “umami” within the identify of the whisky places a heavy stage of suggestion into the drinker’s thoughts — and it takes some doing to attempt to push it out of your head and expertise the whisky for what’s contained in the glass.

As soon as the drinker is dropped appropriately into zen mode, the nostril does certainly evoke a savory, virtually beefy high quality with an fringe of sauteed mushrooms within the combine. The underlying brightness of Blue Label remains to be represented, providing a doughy, biscuity aroma dusted with mild notes of sesame seed, lemon peel, and a contact of tobacco leaf. It’s solely reasonably extra savory — nothing too intense, however noticeable — on the nostril that you simply’d in any other case anticipate from Blue Label, and the identical goes for the palate. Right here we bounce to a restrained however satisfying expertise that melds vanilla and walnut oil notes with layers of minimize grass, toasted wooden, and a pinch of white pepper. Touches of smoke ring the sides of the whisky, once more evoking a mild however partaking mushroom observe, dribbled with soy. The end isn’t lengthy, but it surely feels cohesive and balanced, inviting continued exploration. I discovered it onerous to place down, to be sincere.

The varied incarnations of Blue Label are by no means unenjoyable, however they will typically be easy. Right here that Elusive Umami — a extra applicable identify than I assumed at first — showcases ample complexity that proves that the Home of Walker has loads of further methods up its sleeve. Certainly one of my favourite expressions from the Blue Label particular editions to this point.

86 proof.

A / $400 / johnniewalker.com [BUY IT NOW FROM RESERVEBAR]

The put up Evaluation: Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami appeared first on Drinkhacker: The Insider's Information to Good Consuming.

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